My idea for the Tinny pattern was to have three pocket options. But as I was writing the instructions, I realized that that would turn them into a maze of references (“For option A, go to step B, unless you combine with option C, then go to step D)”. So I decided to stick to one pocket option (the faux pocket flaps) instead, and to offer some options as free tutorials on my blog.
A first one is adding in-seam pockets. The tutorial below explains how to add pockets to the side-seams of a skirt, dress, tunic, pair of pants, and so on. It comes with a free downloadable pattern.
The example I used here is the Queue for the Zoo skirt I blogged about last week (also with a tutorial).
The instructions below assume that the side seams will be sewn with a 1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance. The illustrations show a rectangular skirt pattern (i.e., for a gathered skirt), but the different steps can be applied just as well to an A-line dress, to trousers, to a circle skirt, and so on.
1. Download the free pattern for the pocket pieces here:
Print it at 100%, and use the test square in the top left corner to check whether you printed correctly.
2. Cut 2 pairs of pocket pieces (mirrored). Seam allowance is included in the pattern.
Serge or zigzag the round edges (not the straight one).
3. Place one of the pocket pieces on the front panel of the skirt or dress with right sides together. Make sure not to place the pocket piece too high (keep the seam allowance at the waist in mind if you are making a skirt, for instance).
Stitch the pocket in place with a 0.7 cm (1/4”) seam allowance.
4. Use the same method to attach one pocket piece to the other side of the front panel, and the remaining two pocket pieces to the back panel.
5. Serge or zigzag the side seams of front and back, including the edge of the pocket pieces as you move down.
6. Fold each pocket piece away from the front panel, and press the seam towards the pocket. Topstitch close to the seam.
7. Put the front and back pieces with right sides together, matching up the pocket pieces. Pin along the side edges of the dress and around the edge of the pocket pieces. Stitch along the side side seam, around the pocket, and again down the side seam. At the top and bottom of the pocket, backstitch twice to give extra strength.
8. With your scissors, carefully make a small diagonal cut in the side seam of the dress (not the pocket) near the top and bottom of the side pocket. This will make it easier to press the side seams open.